Whenever the topic of Pinotage comes up among wine lovers, there is much to talk about. The conversation may turn to the historic tales of its creation, when Prof Perold merged Pinot Noir and Hermitage. It may speak of the modern legends who continue to craft delectable and prestigious Pinotage and Pinotage blends.
However the story goes, it should always be accompanied by a full glass, good food and great company.
The Father of Pinotage
Pinotage’s story begins in 1924 with a forward-thinking experiment by Professor Abraham Izak Perold, a pioneering viticulturist at Stellenbosch University. Seeking to create a grape that could combine the elegance of Pinot Noir with the resilience and robustness of Cinsaut (known locally as Hermitage), Perold meticulously crossed these two French varieties. On November 17, 1924, this fusion took place. It was a cross that few, at the time, could have imagined would define South African viticulture.
In 1925, Perold planted the seeds from his experiment, officially marking Pinotage’s birthday. At this stage, the variety held little more than academic interest. In fact, it was nearly forgotten. Perold left the seedlings behind when he took up a post at KWV in Paarl in 1928. It was only thanks to the observant eye of a young academic, Dr. Charlie Niehaus, who rescued the seedlings during a clean-up at Welgevallen farm, that Pinotage was saved from oblivion. He replanted the vines in Stellenbosch, ensuring the survival of what would become a South African icon.
Though it had survived, Pinotage’s journey to commercial success was anything but smooth. The grape’s potential lay dormant for over a decade until 1935 when the vines were grafted onto rootstocks, enabling them to flourish. The first real breakthrough came in 1941, when CT de Waal, a lecturer at Elsenburg, produced the first-ever Pinotage wine. Though it was a modest achievement, it set the stage for a grape that would eventually capture the imagination of winemakers across the globe. Tragically, Professor Perold did not live to taste the fruits of his labour, passing away that same year.
French prince meets humble peasant
By the 1940s, Pinotage began to establish its roots in South African vineyards. The first commercial plantings were made in 1943 at Myrtle Grove farm, marking the beginning of the grape’s journey toward becoming a defining feature of South African viticulture. Its potential soon captured the interest of prominent figures like Gerrit Nieuwoudt, a key figure at Stellenbosch Farmers Winery (SFW). After tasting an experimental Pinotage in 1949, Nieuwoudt became an enthusiastic advocate for the variety, championing its cultivation throughout the region.
The 1950s ushered in a period of growth and optimism for Pinotage. Esteemed vineyards like Uiterwyk (now known as DeWaal) in 1950, followed by Bellevue, Kanonkop, and Meerendal in 1953, planted the variety, helping to establish Pinotage’s early identity. A turning point came in 1959 and 1961 when Bellevue and Kanonkop clinched the prestigious General Smuts Trophy at the National Young Wine Show, cementing Pinotage’s status as a grape of serious merit. In 1964, Pinotage took its first step onto the international stage when New Zealand’s Corbans winery produced its inaugural Pinotage vintage.
Despite these promising developments, the 1970s were a tumultuous decade for Pinotage. In 1976, a group of Masters of Wine dismissed the variety, declaring that it “had no future,” prompting some producers to turn their backs on Pinotage in favour of more internationally renowned varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. However, Pinotage’s resilience and unique qualities helped it defy these early criticisms.
By the late 1970s, the grape had crossed borders and made its way to California, thanks to pioneering efforts by Dick Steltzner, who planted it in 1978. Back in South Africa, notable estates such as Audacia, Delheim, Kanonkop, and Spier continued to refine and promote the variety, ensuring Pinotage’s continued presence and evolution in the wine industry.